Fall for Bamfield for maximum zen

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Bamfield, BC/Huu-ay-aht First Nations  "It's like wildlife new year around here right now," says Scott Wallace, owner of Pacific Sands Lodge in Bamfield. 

Looking out over an empty, white sand beach, I'm amazed to have all this almost all to myself. Fall is the time when all the bird life and a lot of the marine creatures return to this part of Vancouver Island after being up north for the summer. And with fewer humans around, nature's peaceful embrace can fully envelop you. 

Yes, most of the chip-sealed road between Port Alberni to Bamfield is closed as a result of the Mount Underwood wildfire this past August, but don't let this stop you from making a visit this fall. You know adventure is in store when you have to take a logging road to get there. 

Bamfield Vancouver Island BC logging road to Bamfield Jim Barr
Photo: Jim Barr
While the chip-sealed road between Port Alberni and Bamfield is closed (due to the Mount Underwood wildfire this past summer), you can still get there via the Youbou logging road.

I drove the road in early September—coming to Bamfield out of Lake Cowichan and Youbou—and it just made the arrival that much sweeter.

Immediately after the 2.5 hour commute—which was in way better shape than I expected—I hit Pachena Bay for a swim to wash off the dust. I think I counted four people on a beach that spans a kilometre wide full of the whitest nicest sand you can imagine and a proper ocean setting we all dream of. 

Getting a place in Bamfield right now is easy and its cheap. Here is what you need to know to visit Bamfield this fall.

Five tips to finding fall zen in Bamfield

1) When to go: mid-Sept to end of October is ideal for wildlife spotting, suggests Wallace. Bamfield is open, accommodations are running, but as you can appreciate given the road situation, you have the place to yourself.

2) Things to do: so many sea stars, so many great places for a snorkel (if you are really into it, pick up the book ’Snorkeling Adventures Around Vancouver Island and The Gulf Islands”, by Sara Elles)

Wandering tidal shelfs and finding marine life.
Grab a copy of "Snorkeling Adventures Around Vancouver Island and The Gulf Islands” by Sara Elles, for tips to where to snorkel around Bamfield.

3) Take a water taxi to Bamfield West: if you've been with ZenSeekers for a while, you'll know from past stories that Bamfield is broken up into a West and an East community. Yes, the water taxi is running to ferry you from the East where you first arrive driving in, and over to the West.

Bamfield's west side is accessible via a water taxi.
Bamfield Vancouver Island BC
Photo: Kyler Vos
The Bamfield Boardwalk wraps around the west side of the community, for ocean strolls.

4) Plan to spend time checking out west Bamfield: you'll want to be sure to visit the West side, home to Bamfield's unique boardwalk, restaurants like Flora's and the Wreckage, and Brady's Beach among other attractions.

5) Check out the local restaurants: on that note, yes, restaurants are OPEN: this includes Flora's, The Wreckage, and the Market where you can score some fish and chips and all kinds of other chow.

Bamfield Vancouver Island BC
Photo: Kyler Vos
The Bamfield Wreckage is one of several restaurants that are open and ready to welcome you.

If you are looking to truly get away from it all this fall, Bamfield has not only got you, but you will come back with a true soul recharge. 

Be sure to get in for a swim (or at least a cold plunge) and remember it doesn't count unless you go fully underwater three times: once for your ancestors, once for your family and once—the longest—for yourself!

Keep in mind when you travel to Bamfield you are in Huu-ay-aht First Nation homelands, pack your respect and pack your sense of adventure. See if you can find the Tree of Life and stand in its almighty awe. 

Get grounded in nature with a visit to the "Tree of Life."

When you go

You can find almost everything you need to know via Visit Bamfield. For those who want to truly settle into nature, camping at Pachena Bay Campground is open until November 15.

Getting there

  • To travel the Youbou logging road, be sure you have a GPS; it can be tricky given there are a lot of logging road turn-offs you do not want to take.
  • Be sure you have proper tires, and note there is NO cell phone coverage once you leave Youbou until you get to Bamfield (2.5 hours). Yes, it's bumpy, but not uncomfortable.
  • Drive it during the day, and avoid being on the road at night.

Stay alert, there's lots of wildlife, I saw a momma bear with her two cubs and this big elk:

Or skip the drive all together and simply hop the Lady Rose out of Port Alberni that will sail you up one of the worlds largest inlets to Bamfield! You don't actually need a car once you're there. 

If you can't make it this fall, be sure and put Bamfield on your 2026 destination wish list; it won't leave you hanging. 

Let us know what you discover, include the hashtag #zenseekers and #visitbamfield in your social posts so we might learn from you what we might have missed!